Lulworth Cove is one of Dorset’s most picturesque and popular coastal haunts.
Carved out of the rocky coastline purely by the action of the sea, it is also one
of several characteristic geological features in the area. Others include Stair
Hole and the iconic Durdle Door.
Lulworth Cove, itself, is to the seaward side of the small village of West Lulworth
and a few miles from Lulworth Army Camp. Had it not been requisitioned by the War
Office during the Second World War, it is easy to imagine that the nearby “lost”
village of Tyneham, might have grown into something similar - a small, rural, secluded,
coastal village and tourist favourite.
Lulworth Cove is almost completely enclosed and near-circular apart from its narrow
entrance. As natural harbours go, it is small but perfectly-formed and has been
used by fishing boats, pleasure craft and even passenger vessels running services
to other ports of call on the Dorset coast. These are largely tourist services, but
this is an area where even tourism has a long history! Steam boats were once frequent
visitors to Lulworth Cove and are not unknown today!
Lulworth Cove was formed by the sea breaking through a comparatively thin layer of
hard Portland Stone that runs parallel to the shoreline. Once through, the action
of the waves allowed much softer clays to be eroded more rapidly and extensively.
And, as any school-kid physicist will tell you, when a straight wave hits a barrier
with a hole in it, the resulting wave pattern on the other side is semi-circular.
If you don’t believe it, go to Lulworth Cove and see it for yourself! The curved
waves radiate out from the Cove entrance showing very clearly how Lulworth got it’s
shape.
If physical geography and geology is your thing there’s lots more to look out for
in and around Lulworth. To the West of the Cove entrance and a short walk along
the cliff tops you’ll find Stair Hole. In fine weather this is just a small hole
in a big rock through which gentle waves lap and play. In rougher weather on the
other hand, it’s a great place to see the force of the sea and, in particular, the
impact of hydraulic action - waves forcing water into small holes in the rocks and,
over time, making the holes bigger and longer until they break out the other side.
Taken together, Stair Hole and Lulworth Cove are the sea’s equivalent of “this is
one I made earlier”. One day, Stair Hole will also develop into a cove like Lulworth
and probably merge with it. But don’t hold your breath, you’ll need to be a Time
Lord to see it.
What you can see today, both in Stair Hole and Lulworth Cove, is the fascinatingly
folded layers of rock that form the ridges that have made this stretch of coastline
so characteristic. Looking across the cove from the beach near its entrance to the
sea gives a particularly good view of the rock strata, which are tilted to about
45 degrees.
For those who want to know more about how the cove formed and the area’s geology,
there’s a substantial visitor centre along with a café and souvenir shops. This
also provides lots of information about the history of the Lulworth Estate on whose
land the you’ll be standing.
Apart from the Cove itself and the Visitor Centre, there’s a semi-pedestrianised
walk which goes from the car park and visitor centre down to the cove. It is rich
with places to refresh yourself or buy mementoes.
The car park is substantial, but you do need to pay and display. But it is worth
it as there’s lots to do, for those with the energy to do it.
You could, of course, just use a visit to Lulworth Cove as another visit to the beach
(this one’s pebbly with rock pools in places at low tide). But there are also walks
Eastward, when the gunnery Ranges are open, and Westwards along the South West Coast
Path to Durdle Door.
You should be aware though, that this is not an area for the faint- or weak-hearted
walker. The route to Durdle Door, for example, rises from just above sea-level to
134 metre in less than half a mile. The path is faced with stones, but these can
be slippery when wet (scarily so) and there are steps... A lot of steps. And don’t
forget, if you’re going down to Durdle Door, you have to make the climb twice, once
there and again on the way back!
Nevertheless, if you’re up to it, the rewards are spectacular!...But remember to
take anything you think you’ll need with you. It is a long, hard trek back for the
forgetful, the thirsty or the hungry!...Oh, and make sure you “go” before you go...
